Taku
2016 - 5: T'aawak Eix'i (Goose Slough)
September 3-5


And
then my cousin Jeannette arrived with Ayzling and little Cousin
Ace. For a
change of pace, and a few other reasons, we decided to head up the Taku
for a little wilderness adventure rather than Snettisham. I'd
spent the
prior night at a homestead outside of Tenakee and arrived at the Juneau
Airport on an Alaska Seaplanes flight just
a few minutes after the Johnsons landed and was able to hitch a ride
with them. A few
hours later we were back at the airport loading up an A-star Tempsco
helicopter (which
turned out to be ridiculously roomy) and heading up Lemon Creek for a
spectacular ride. We took a route I'm unfamiliar with, puzzling me with
the dead end branch of the Norris Glacier (I didn't even remember there
was a dead end branch), then cruising over the end of Norris and
Norris Lake before puttering over the toe of the Taku and onto
Bullard's. As Jeannette said, I don't think you could ever get tired of
that view and we had glorious sunny weather again to enjoy it. I had
imagined Ayzling's delight in looking out the window, but only adults
are allowed to sit next to the doors and I looked behind me once to
find her sound asleep.
We were
met by Mike, Amelia, Jia Jia, and Guo Zhong when we landed and managed
to squeeze everyone inside in the living room after we unloaded our
gear. Cailey and Yogi were still rather cool with each other, but there
was less aggression than there had been previously. All in all we were
ten people and three dogs, but managed to fit into the cabin. We
chatted for a bit,
had drinks, and settled in, then ate spaghetti for dinner. Guo Zhong
finally got to open his birthday present, nearly two months late. After
dinner, we used the giant TV box as a makeshift table to play a
collaborative game (something like Lost Island) which we soundly lost.
I
think the last of us went to bed around 11 or 12 and I slept on the
couch, quite roomy with the back pillows removed, even with Cailey.
![]() Barefoot cousins |
![]() Juneau Icefield |
![]() Dead Branch Norris Lake |
![]() Jeannette and Ace |
In the
morning, Jia Jia helped me pick blueberries and I made pancakes for
everyone, feeding Mike's family first as they were heading to the lodge
at 9:00 to catch the deadhead. It took a long time to make enough
pancakes for everyone! By the time we'd all had breakfast, dressed
kids, and packed up for an adventure, it was around 11:00. The Johnsons
and my mom and I headed for the meadow behind the cabin, enjoying the
good work Mike's family had done in clearing the brushy part of the
trail at the end. My mother flawlessly walked us to the canoe and I
carried Ayzling part of the way, as the grass and shrubs were almost
head high on her in places. We found the canoe and paddles just as we'd
left them and soon had everyone aboard--two dogs, two kids, and three
adults. Jeannette used the new stool my mother had brought for a center
seat, which worked well. I made the mistake again of rushing down the
bank to the canoe and failing to peruse the water for wildlife first,
consequently startling two swans from just down the slough. The honked
at each other, turned, and flew right by us, huge and white,
disappearing upstream. The whole slough was alive with other waterfowl,
flushed at intervals and corners all along our route, dozens, scores
of ducks (green and blue winged teal among them, goldeneyes too I
think, plus others I couldn't identify) and a flock of Canada geese
near the mountain. The water in the slough was low enough that the
water weeds were choking it off and we practically pushed our way
through the dense vegetation rather than paddling in many places.
By the
time we passed the big bend and reached the mountain, Ayzling was
rather antsy and we were ready for a snack, so we took the canoe ashore
and climbed up on the rock face that had apparently been utilized by
the
tour company that used to run in there; we used the remaining rope to
help pull
ourselves up a steep section and followed the trail they'd worn in the
mossy vegetation. With very little effort we found ourselves with a
commanding view of the valley, glowing in fall colors and sunshine. We
snacked and I got to hold Ace while he napped as the rest of us enjoyed
the view and
the company. Too soon we were heading down the rock face again and back
to Canoe Landing, baby Ace leaning deep over the side of the canoe as
though looking for his long lost cousins in the water. We had
quesadillas when we got back and played with the kids, then ate a late
dinner of hamburgers.
![]() Johnsons on the porch |
![]() We get underway |
![]() Paddling the slough |
![]() On the cliffs |
![]() Jeannette and Ayzling |
![]() Cousin Ayzling |
![]() Ace gazes at the water plants |
![]() Mom cutting a spruce (next day) |
In the
morning we ate breakfast on our own and visited. The sky had clouded
over during the night and rain began to fall before my mother and I
headed to the river to work on the eroding beach. Last fall on our
last trip we'd tied up one large spruce tree that had gone over the
bank along with Prometheus the log and the tree from the front lawn
that we'd drug over there. Over the less than year since we'd lost
about 15 feet of riverbank, as evidenced by the layer of turf
blanketing the steep slope toward the water (previously bare sand) and
the several trees that had gone over the bank, at least one of which
was the anchor for a tree we'd tied off last fall. First we pushed
through the brush to a tree upriver that was just beginning to lean. We
tied it off several feet up and then Mom cut it off. It got caught on
the way down, but she and I manhandled it down over the bank on top of
Prometheus. Jeannette and the kids came out and gave us moral support.
Being terrified of chain saws, I was suitably impressed with my
mother's confidence. Downriver were two spruces and some alders that
had gone down. I climbed out and tied lines around them
about four feet out and then my mother awkwardly crawled out onto them
and cut them off, trimming a few branches on the way. I was genuinely
terrified for her, but she pulled it off without any trouble. Both
trees fell to the water and were tied off on trees that we'll probably
lose next year. These trees will add quite a bit of cover to the bank,
which may help, but I am not particularly hopeful the erosion will slow
anytime soon.
![]() Mom precariously cuts trees on the bank |
![]() I tie off a spruce |
![]() Mom and Jeannette |
![]() Jeannette and Ace |
After
that we headed upriver for a little walk in the mist, making it well
onto Forest Service land before turning around. Ace came with us and
slept, but Ayzling chose to stay behind with Dad. We came back with
enough time to have a quick lunch and pack up before the helicopter
came to pick us up around 3:00. The rain had set in by that time and we
returned via Taku Inlet and the channel.

Ayzling shakes fireweed down