Snettisham 2013 - 9: The Bridge - Part 2
August 15-18


Evening at the homestead

Having arrived back in Juneau at 7:15 Tuesday evening after back-to-back Snettisham/Taku trips, I wound up spending all of Wednesday in town recuperating and helping Chris entertain his grandfather visiting on a cruise ship. I just didn’t have it in me to pack and run errands to head out that same day. Instead, I ran a few errands Thursday morning and had a leisurely departure at 11:30 a.m., pleased to see that the flags were still pointing south (the wind was supposed to turn against me that afternoon). In fact, the water could not have been better, calm or nearly calm all the way south, and I couldn’t imagine how I’d been so lucky. It was a wonderful thing to be back in the Ronquil, ship shape with hardly any load at all, cruising on a gentle ocean to the homestead. I scanned around the entire trip for any sign of whales or orcas, but saw nothing but a couple of silky harbor seals near Seal Rock.

I arrived at the homestead around 1:15, precisely at low tide, but the low tide was around 5’ and I was able to pull quite close to the mud bank. With only a backpack, small duffle, grocery bag, and a single piece of window trim, I was able to carry everything up in one trip on my way to get the kayak (possibly a first), and even Cailey stayed on the boat as I did so. We quickly anchored and came back to shore, pausing for a quick snack before getting to work, noticing with disappointment that there was clearly no flow of water through the water system (the pressure was weak and rapidly dropping). I had my emergency gallon, though, so decided it could wait until the next day.

The air was still clear and warm, though a breeze was picking up that suggested a change in the weather. I cut six balusters out of 2x4s and screwed four of them onto the downriver end of the rails. That seemed to be working well enough, so I returned to the deck of the lodge, trimmed two pieces (which had turned out to be too long), and cut 30 more. This was a bit labor intensive, as I wanted the balusters to have 45 degree angles on both ends, complicating the cutting by having to measure extra carefully and flip the boards around to make sure I was cutting in the right direction. Plus I think the blade on my skilsaw is wearing out. But eventually I’d cut them all and carried another batch down to the bridge. Since I had the locations for the balusters on the first ~8’ section already marked, these were easy enough to place. I screwed the top of them into the top rail from the ground, then made sure they were plumb before screwing in the bottom. When the first section was done, I measured the second section and quickly figured out how much space to leave after the first post (slightly more than in the previous section because it was a bit wider), then marked their locations on the top rail (about 2 inches from the post and four inches between each baluster). Because the tops of the balusters were much farther from the ground in that section, I screwed the tops in from the bridge and then screwed the bottoms in from below.

I repeated the process for the third and final section, though I had to reposition almost all of the balusters after screwing the tops in because (despite careful calculations) I’d wound up with a 4.5” gap between the last balusters and the last post and had to move everything over an inch and a half even though the math didn’t work. It turns out that the problem was that I forget which side of my lines the balusters went on and my original lines were correct (which I only discovered as I approached within two balusters of the final post). I must say, the results looked gorgeous. I was still troubled by the wigglyness of the posts, though, so I then added a longer lag screw to each of the four posts on that side, shoring them up a bit. I’m not sure how stable railings normally feel, but I’m still concerned.

While working on the final section of balusters, rain began to fall and I fetched a hat and jacket to finish the work, letting Cailey stay inside the lodge to rest. At 5:30 I’d reached a stopping point and was getting hungry, so I broke for the day, eating macaroni and cheese for dinner, reading a bit, and working on this trip report.

Cutting rails and balusters

Putting up the first balusters

The first section complete
Sometime in the middle of the night Cailey joined me on the bed and I didn’t argue. I slept heavily for what must have been close to 11 hours and, after finally waking, I laid in bed another 45 minutes or so to finish the book I’d been reading. I thought a leisurely start to the work weekend would do me good. I expected to start the day by digging out the pool where the water catchment olive barrel sits, but when I turned the faucet on (remembering too late that there would be no water), a strong flow of water came out. The night of rain had raised the creek level to fill the barrel again! It was a good way to start the day. So, after a quick snack for breakfast I got to work cutting notches in the second log for the posts. I did a much better job than on the other side, really making sure the notches were plumb to begin with and laboriously chiseling out the notches bit by bit. I did start each cut with a hand saw, but quickly moved to chiseling as it was so much more efficient and easy to control. In the end it took me two hours to get them ready. Then I took a break, ate the rest of the macaroni and cheese, and had a cup of Russian tea on the porch before getting back to it.

Then started the rather agonizing task of nailing the posts in the notches until they were plumb so I could measure them for trimming (they are too tall). The first post gave me all kinds of trouble, both in positioning it correctly and in getting nails through the post. I bent several nails in all kinds of horrible ways, and rarely could I use a nail twice. I beat up the outside of it pulling bent nails out. Once they were more or less in place (the others went up much easier), I was initially troubled to see that they didn’t line up very well. But, holding up some handy 2x4s indicated that they were close enough. The real trouble came when I placed boards beneath each post so I could measure up from them to mark where each post should be trimmed (about 35” up, so the full height would be 36.5” with the top railing in place). The board for the final post was, as expected, not level. That log somehow goes from being level with the other log for 16’ to a drop of about 3” in the last 8’. That means that, to have level treads, I’d have to raise them 3”. But that means that, if the middle rails are level with the rails on the other sections, they won’t be level with the treads. I’d originally held up a board level with the line I’d marked for cutting on the nearest post in order to mark where the (level) board would be on the final post, but realized that cutting the post there would make the rail below the minimum 36” height above the treads, since they would be raised 3”. It was all very frustrating and, in the end, I shimmed up the board beneath the final post to level and measured 35” up from there.

I carried all the posts back to the lodge deck and trimmed them before nailing them back into place, this time following up with lag bolts. I started with the forth post and was amazed at how much more secure it felt than the posts on the other side, probably testament to my careful chiseling. While I worked on securing the second post I started thinking about how I needed to shoot my rifle today and that the tide was as low as it was going to get, which wasn’t very low at all. When I finished that post, I took a break and shot eight rounds down in the mud flats. After a couple of blueberry muffins I went back at it, struggling mightily to get the next post in place. But finally it was done, all the posts surprisingly sturdy. I marked a line on all the posts 4” up from the treads, returned to the deck to cut the 2x4 rails (the ones the balusters are screwed to) for the middle posts (which need to be slightly less than 8’) and painted some wood treatment onto the tops of the posts and the newly cut ends before screwing in the downriver and middle rails into place. I did not screw in the ones on the upriver section, as I think the floor treads should go into place before I figure out what the rails are going to do.

At that point it seemed wise to figure out the decking, as it had bearing on finishing the end of the rail (plus I was just not eager to cut a bunch more balusters, as the angles are a pain to deal with). I calculated that I needed an additional eight feet of decking on top of the 2x12 pieces I’d already cut. I uncovered the corner of the lumber where I’d stashed pressure treated boards before and pulled out two 2x12 pieces and 2x8s. I cut those into 3’ pieces, carried them to the bridge, and discovered that I needed another 34” or so, or six 2x6s (since that was all I had left). I cut those pieces, carried them over, and began the very slow process of laying them out. I started out with a 2x6 for the short distance between the first post and the end of the logs, then started laying down 2x12s, making sure each was flat and stable before moving to the next. Although the guys had done a nice job of trimming the branches off the logs, a number of branch stubs remained, causing the boards to tilt badly. These knots I chiseled off one at a time. The worst ones required dicing them up like a checkerboard from above before slicing at them from the side, chipping off a few squares at a time. If there weren’t so many, and if some of them weren’t so stubborn, that part was actually fun.

The 2x8 and 2x6 treads I used mostly around the posts. I’d made sure that the distance between the posts on the second log was exactly the same as the distance between the posts on the other side, but somehow the first posts were about 3” off, so they are actually offset. It worked well to have narrower treads around those posts, so one end butts against the post and doesn’t stick too far off the other side. By 6:30 I had them all laid out, but with an unfortunate gap about 6” wide. Physically and apparently mentally exhausted, I was in no state to problem solve, so I quit for the day and retreated to the lodge for a dinner of vegetable soup. The showers had ceased early in the day and the clouds had parted before a calm and beautiful evening. I sat on the deck to eat my soup and watch the birds. All day I’d heard chickadees around me, and possibly golden-crowned kinglets, but little else other than haunting ravens and screaming eagles. But in just a couple of minutes, what seemed like one big flock of birds buzzed everywhere among the currents and salmonberry bushes on either side of the deck, and it even seemed like the chickadees were chasing other species. They whirred wildly as they crossed the deck into the bushes on the other side, working their way slowly upriver. I saw a ruby-crowned kinglet, Wilson’s warblers, an orange-crowned warbler, chickadees, and Townsend’s warblers along with a Pacific wren who I believe was left behind as the others moved on. But the chickadees definitely dominated the day—it must have been a good year for them, and I wonder if they are here all year? I’d like to find out!

Cailey hunting rodents

Placing the riverside posts

Plumbing the posts
At about 2:00 a.m. I half-awoke to the wonderful sound of heavy rain on the metal roof of my cabin. I mused sleepily to myself that it would surely fill the water system again (which had run dry after the day of dry weather). I recounted to myself all the tools I’d put away out of the rain and realized that I’d left the skilsaw out on the deck. The rain didn’t sound like it had any intention of stopping, so I threw on my robe and raincoat and hurried to the lodge, the trail lit only by my headlamp. I secured the saw and went inside for a drink of water, interested to find that the rain had not yet raised the water high enough to improve the pressure. I wondered how long it would take and thought it would be interesting to turn on the faucet and time it. Instead I went back to bed and lay sleepless for some time. Consequently, I didn’t wake up until 8:30 and didn’t get to work until after 9:00, despite my intent for an early start. I did take the time for a quick breakfast and a slow cup of café francais on the porch, though, before I headed back to the bridge.

I’d left off the night before with a gap in the treads and uncertainty about where each tread should lay. After a quick look, I decided to go ahead and cut another tread from a 2x4 (which would be the only 2x4 tread), which I quickly did. It really was the perfect size and didn’t seem to detract from the rest of the treads. Then I tediously arranged boards to be both functional (fitting around the posts) and aesthetic. When I finally had them all appropriately placed, I cut a small notch from the very first tread so it fit around one of its posts and also on the log in front of it. It was a small enough cut that I was able to do it with a hand saw and chisel. Having fit that one well, though, I looked at the next post and saw that its adjacent tread would benefit greatly from a notch too. It required a much longer saw cut, though, so I took the time to carry it back to the lodge to cut, finished the vertical cut with a hand saw, and then chiseled the chunk out. Of course, that got me looking at the other posts, and I wound up carrying three more boards back to the lodge to cut, then saw by hand, then chisel, then treat with wood treatment before putting them back in place. I lost a lot of time that way, but the results are worth it.

Once the boards were back in place, I made sure the spacing between them was perfect, then began shimming the middle eight foot section on the uphill side, as the log there was a little lower than the one on the other side. They didn’t need much to bring them up to level, but I went through a lot of shims in the process. I’d also wasted a bit of time that morning looking for my lost bundles of shims; I’d purchased them last year to have on hand and came across them this spring, but I couldn’t find them anywhere in the lodge, attic, or work shop. Thankfully, I’d found a different bag shims the day before and had those to work with. I didn’t think I had enough for the whole bridge, so I stopped 2/3 of the way through and, after those were all placed and shimmed, carefully put two or three screws in each treat to hold them in place.

And then it was time for the last section, which was much less level than the rest of the bridge. I had only a handful of shims left, so I crawled under the bridge and broke off as many as I could (they were all screwed in at that point), and started building the remaining treads up on the river side. By the time I reached the last few boards I used 2x chunks I’d brought over and treated. I hadn’t quite raised them high enough to be perfectly level, but they were pretty close; stepping back, though, they looked decidedly less level than the rest of the bridge, so I went back and shimmed them up a little more. This is probably not what you’re supposed to do, but it seemed like the best option at the time! I can always shore them up better another time. In the meantime, Cailey kept stopping by and I kept shooing her away from my carefully placed (but not yet secured) boards!

The second round went quickly and I was soon screwing the boards down. The last few required me to screw down the supports before I screwed the boards to the supports, as they were too far elevated on the one side for the screws to reach the log. And then it was done—a fantastic, relatively level if slightly catawampus looking bridge!

By that time it was about 12:30, so I broke for a lunch of well-deserved quesadillas. The next and nearly final step was to cut and secure the balusters for the second side of the bridge. I’d run out of batteries on the second maquita finishing the bridge treads and had none left (that was the fifth battery I’d run down this weekend!). Thankfully I’d brought down the charger for one of the maquitas, so decided to charge one of its batteries while I used the generator to cut the balusters. After measuring them out (much more intelligently than I had the day before), I started up Sparky and quickly cut them all up. After a couple of trips carrying them to the bridge, I measured the distance between the two center posts so I could cut the 2x6 rails. Then I cut and carried the 2x6s over (mostly to allow the battery more time to charge), before scouring the lumber stack for additional pressure treated 2x4s I might have missed the day before. I found one short piece and made an additional baluster, then took the extension cord inside the lodge and hooked up the miter saw. I had two pieces of trim I wanted to cut, replacing pieces that were yellowed and didn’t match the rest of the trim (I’d brought the fresh 12’ piece down for that purpose). I pried the trim over the top of the back door off and traced it onto the fresh piece, then traced the outline of the special piece that goes below the back window which needs a cutout for the sink. I made the cuts that required the miter saw, then took the jig saw outside and made the final cut for the sink.

By that time, miraculously, the maquita battery was charged, so I headed back to the bridge, painted wood treatment on the cut ends of the balusters, and screwed them in, most of which I could do comfortably from the ground. There was plenty of power left after that, so I tentatively placed the last two middle rails between the last two posts on the downhill side, pleased that they didn’t look as off as I thought they might. When those were secure, I treated the ends of the cut 2x6 rails and screwed those on the top. Unable to stop, I then took the time to finish shimming or re-shimming a couple of treads, mostly where one tread was significantly lower than the one following, trying to make the change more gradual. So close to being officially finished, I still couldn’t stop, so I poured wood treatment into a cup and painted the tops and bottoms of the balusters on the uphill side of the bridge as well as the cut tread ends on both sides. Finally, I took all the tools away, cut off a branch that had been lying across the front of the bridge and in the way all weekend, and took pictures. Of course, the bridge is not actually complete because somehow I managed to short myself about four 2x4s for the balusters, so just over a third of the downhill side lacks them entirely. But, that’s a simple fix for next time. Other than that, there was just one tread that needed to be secured better and it would be officially done.

When I got back to the lodge I thought I might reward myself with a scrumptious cup of Russian tea on the porch, even though it was 4:30 and a bit late for caffeine, but when I looked out on the river I saw that the tide was lower than it had been all weekend and decided I’d try shooting my rifle again. I read the instructions for adjusting the sites (I’d been consistently low and to the right) which were woefully inadequate (it told me in which direction to move the rear sites for the desired shift, but did not actually explain how to move it). Nevertheless, I gave it a go, and shot off five rounds (the sixth misfired). Two were pretty close to the bulls eye and the others were close to center but still low. Perhaps I’ll back it up a notch and see if I get even closer.

For some reason, I still couldn’t stop, so I screwed on one of the hasps I’d brought down to secure the sides of the shed door. I wanted to put the second hasp at the same level as the first, so I trudged back toward Mink where I thought I’d left the tape on the porch so I could take measurements. On the way, I picked up the clippers and started cutting a trail behind Mink to the bridge, roughly where the trail across the gully used to be before the big tree fell. I trimmed salmonberries and devil’s club (as few as possible) and made a nice meandering trail through the bushes that have grown up impressively in the last eight years. I tried to avoid the path of the hose and the rough clearing behind Mink, trying instead to create a new path all its own. It requires the removal of quite a few logs (branches) on the ground, but otherwise I think it’ll work nicely. Once I made my way to the bridge, I saw that the nice rock in front of it would look nice a little closer, so I moved it just in front of the first tread and added a rock and a wedge of log to stabilize it. Then I saw that the straight side of the rock was on the outside and the rounded side was toward the bridge, so I flipped it around, which required readjustment of rocks and additional rocks, but it now looks pretty good and is nice and stable. Tomorrow I hope to clear the path better and start on the other side.

I did remember to bring the measuring tape back with me (it was actually stashed under the bridge) and screwed in the second hasp to the shed door. And then I did finally quit, had a snack and then ramen for dinner on the porch, and got back to work writing this!

2/3 of the deck level

All treads are level!

And now the rails is mostly done too
The next morning I got to work around 9:00, wearing xtratufs this time to protect my feet, and gloves to protect my hands (I’d previously been barefoot). Having a bridge in place, it was time to build a trail to it (and beyond it), and that involved picking up devil’s club and hauling around logs. Logs, you say? Yep. The whole area behind Mink cabin is littered with the big limbs of the massive tree that came down in 2005, most of which are 6-8” in diameter. I pulled out all the salmonberries, devil’s club, and ferns I’d cut the day before and started probing at the branches I found crossing the path. It was incredible how many there were, many small sticks and thin branches in addition to the main limbs. Most were covered in moss, having lain there for eight years. I didn’t think I had a chance at moving some of the bigger ones, which seem to congregate near the end the bridge, but one after another I levered them up off the ground, broke off pieces, or otherwise dislodged them until I freed them from the ground and drug them to a rapidly building pile I created under the tree itself. It was hard, hard work, but immensely satisfying. I wound up clearing the entire are of dead wood (including a tree with a small root wad still in the ground), even those that posed no threat to the trail I’d built. For the moment it looks rather devastated, but it’ll look fantastic in the spring.

Cailey was pretty excited that I was so engaged with sticks and I had to be stern with her many times as she tried to play tug-of-war with the logs I was hauling away. But most of the time she was able to chew and play with logs of her choice while I worked to dislodge others. After the downriver trail was built, I crossed the bridge and slowly worked upriver, picking the route that involved cutting the least number of berries and trees. Consequently, the trail goes more or less straight upriver until it connects with the trail between Harbor Seal and Hermit Thrush, and is not as direct a connection to Harbor Seal as I’d originally thought.

Building that trail was a different sort of trial. There were quite a few large branches near the bridge, but the rest of it were mostly smaller branches and devil’s club. As I am a fan of devil’s club (and prefer not to kill anything unnecessarily), I took as few as possible, pulling out as many dead stalks as live ones. Although the morning was wearing on, I plugged away, determined to intersect with the trail on the far end before I left. At last there was a clear trail, badly in need of trampling down, crossed by the water line for Harbor Seal cabin. I quit and headed back to the lodge to pack up and have a relaxing cup of Russian tea on the front porch. I lingered there, entertained by the bird activity in the bushes and shrubs on either side of the porch. I was particularly excited to see an adult hermit thrush show up, followed by a fledgling, both of them eating elderberries. This was a welcome look at a hermit thrush fledging, as I’d been watching Swainson’s thrush fledglings for several weeks in Juneau and wanted to compare them. They were joined in the elderberry by what I believe was a young Lincoln’s sparrow and his bigger cousin the fox sparrow.

Eventually I finished closing up and kayaked out to the boat with Cailey, fueling up at the same time that I pumped the water out of the fuel tank well. When the floorboard supports were reconstructed, the bilge pump and float switch were not installed, so I have to manually set up and start the pump. I tried a strategy I’d been thinking about, which worked very well, placing the pump in the back of the boat under the mostly empty smaller fuel tank and propping the float switch up while I looked on. It was a surprisingly slow process, and doesn’t get the water in the bilge out, but vastly superior to doing it by hand, and with light loads the water in the bilge doesn’t hurt at all.

I swung by the beach to drop off the kayak and pick up the little gear I had, leaving earlier than usual to have some time to relax and recuperate in town before heading back to work the next morning. We left at 1:00, but lingered just around River Point to check out a huge iceberg—by far the deepest into the port I’ve ever seen one (a rare occurrence at all). The sloping surface of one side was covered in gulls, their extended use betrayed by the brown droppings that marred the white surface. I tried to keep my distance so they didn’t fly, but was rewarded when they did by noting their black legs as they took to the air. Almost all the gulls on the iceberg were black-legged kittiwakes, a gull far more common closer to the outer coast than at the mainland. The port was a little rough, and we had a 2-3’ following sea all the way home--a little bouncy, but I was just grateful for the direction. I texted Chris on the way in, who drew me a steamy bath as I was driving home.


Gray current crop!

The rock placed at the downriver end

Stack of branches from the downriver path

Downriver path behind Mink

Cailey is worn out

Black-legged kittiwakes


Bridge!