Snettisham
2012 - 1: Earliest Opening Ever
April 13-15

View of Gilbert Bay on the way out
Cailey
is a born boat dog. Literally. Maybe her
complete ease on the skiff is the result of spending her first three
and a half
months on a sailboat, or maybe she's just young, but you couldn't ask
for a
better boat dog. She sits down whenever she wants, she stands on
the back
bench to sniff over the side when we're at full speed, she lays over my
legs to
sniff above the windshield and, when she's cold or tired, she curls up
between
the seats and snoozes.
But I'm getting ahead of myself! Unparalleled fine weather
through the
month of March nudged me far enough out of my winter blues to complete
boat
maintenance in record time with and with record success. Other
than a
little problem with the electrical system (which simply required a
thorough scouring
of the connectors), there were no major problems and I probably only
made about
four trips to Western Auto. In addition to the standard
maintenance
(changing the lower unit oil, the spark plugs, and the fuel filter;
scrubbing;
installing the bilge pump; tightening the rails), I made a few repairs
and
improvements including securing the windshield back to the boat (the
driver's
side had been completely disconnected for half of last summer),
reconnecting
the passenger side windshield brace, removing some old hardware, and
installing
two rod holders. Everything was ready by the end of March and we
began to
think about April adventures, so an April 7 going away camping party at
Sunshine Cove sealed our plans. Instead of driving out the road
(Sunshine
Cove is about 38 miles from downtown), we thought we'd show up by
boat.
So, after a morning of glorious spring skiing at Eaglecrest, we drove
the boat
out to Amalga Harbor at 3:00. Launching went smoothly; Cailey
climbed
into the boat, but was scared away up the ramp by the engine
starting. We
coaxed her back to us with the engine off, but had to pick her up to
get her
back in the boat. Once inside, we pushed off and drifted for a few
seconds away
from the dock (and escape) before starting the engine again. And
that's
when it became apparent that Cailey was a natural. Nothing seemed
to
phase her, and she never flinched again about the engine! Of
course the
water was flat calm--the day absolutely stunning--which certainly
didn't
hurt. We cruised over to Little Island and took turns going
ashore, but
the current was ripping through the pass so we didn't linger.
Cailey got
to romp around and pee, then was lifted back into the boat. We
still had
some time to kill, so we zipped into St. James Bay briefly before
heading for
Sunshine Cove for the night. Cailey enjoyed the camp food (which
was
conveniently spread all over the ground) and camp dogs, but that's
another
story! The next morning she surprised us by curling up in the bow
of the
boat on the way back to the harbor when we ran into some unpleasant
chop (she
was dead tired).
The
next weekend we headed to Snettisham for the earliest opening
ever.
I've made it down there twice before in April, but an early to mid-May
start is
more typical. After a virtually cloudless March, the fine weather
just
kept coming and we couldn't think of a reason to wait! I spent
the
morning at home feeling under the weather, paying bills, and finishing
taxes,
then I rallied and we took off from the harbor at 4:50 pm. It was
another
glorious evening and we drank Pacificos down the channel while Cailey
drank in
the sea air. Though we were still under the influence of a high
pressure
sunny streak, we did run into an unpleasant little southwesterly chop
in Taku
Inlet which slowed us a bit. As we approached Grand Island I saw
a little
splash in the distance off Grave Point that set my orca hairs on
end.
Sure enough, one big black fin and a couple of smaller fins broke the
surface a
little closer! There were orcas on our very first trip
out!!
Unfortunately, I was to be disappointed; never have I met such slippery
orcas. When I first saw them they were still quite far
away. We
moved in their direction, fully expecting them to come up in front of
us, but
after stopping and drifting for a while, we saw nothing until we
realized they
must have traveled far under the surface and already passed us.
Sure
enough, far far away up Taku Inlet the four orcas came up again.
Though I
was not optimistic, we sped in that direction in the hopes of
eventually
catching up and having a look at those fins--I'm sure they were
transients, which made them all the more tantalizing. The going
was
faster and easier since we were going with the seas; I scanned the
water ahead
and Chris watched behind, but for eight minutes we saw nothing and I
gave
up. On the way back south, we saw them come up again near the
south end
of Grand Island. Assuming it was the same group (which it seemed
to be),
they'd turned around and headed south again, covering impressively
large
distances in short order. I doubt they were intentionally
avoiding us, as
we were a small blip in a big area and never got closer than a quarter
mile
from them, so I wondered if they'd honed in on a noisy seal or
something.
Happy to have seen orcas, but also disappointed to have seen nothing
but
distant fins, we banged our way south against the seas. Stephen's
Passage
was quiet--no whales or exciting groups of birds, just snowy Admiralty
and
sunshine, and Chris drove the rest of the way to the homestead while I
relaxed. We distracted Cailey from chewing on the oar and other
wooden
poles with a piece of driftwood I'd picked up on Little Island and she
gnawed
happily for some time, also devouring a bone from the beach.
By
the time we got to the homestead it was 7:30 and the sun was low on
the horizon
back in Stephen's Passage, long out of sight at the lodge. We
dropped the
crab pot and cruised into shore; all appeared to be in order.
Cailey
jumped out, we unloaded gear, and I took off to anchor the boat, kayak
in
tow. Cailey ran along the bank and waded out after me a little,
but I
called out for her to stay and she contented herself with watching and
romping
around with Chris. While I was anchoring, Chris said it was like
she suddenly
realized she was free and went crazy, jackrabbit running around the
meadows and
needlessly leaping everywhere. She reminded me of Nigel when I
got back
from anchoring--play bowing and running in circles as I drug the kayak
up the
beach.
But we had immediate work to do! Three hours
on the water in early April
had left us both chilled and the stove wasn't functional.
Thankfully, it
goes together pretty quickly and we soon had the smoke stack up.
Chris
lit a cheery little fire and I lit the pilots on the stove. My
icy feet
were soon thawing while pasta bubbled on the stove. Cailey was
beside
herself with a whole new house to sniff (and a whole new array of items
she had
to learn to leave alone). Despite the long day she settled down
only when
we did, around 9:30 (she's usually asleep by 7:00). Consequently,
I
expected to have a long and restful night's sleep, but she woke up at
first
light (4:30) to continue to explore her new world. Letting her
outside
partially solved the problem, though she noisily rummaged around under
the
lodge. I did get to doze on and off for a couple of hours, but
all in
all, I didn't end up nearly as well rested as I had expected!
It didn't help that the mice were noisy all night, which not only woke
me up
but was a constant reminder of that disappointing discovery. We
saw very
little mouse dirt, but discovered a whole bag of pasta, half a bag of
rice,
oatmeal, and various other overwintered food stashed around the
lodge. The second disappointment was the malfunctioning sink. As
soon as
I was up, I went about getting us water. Stepping out the front
door, I
called to Cailey who was down by the water; she lifted her head, looked
at me
for a second, and then bounded up with uncontained enthusiasm.
She danced
around me as we headed up the trail to the water source, breaking away
to leap
like a deer through the dormant devil's club and fallen trees.
It's a
neat time to explore the property with the undergrowth unleaved and
relatively
sparse. At the edge of the creek a big snow patch covered the
water line
and the path and Cailey ran around that, too.
A
hemlock had fallen over the creek from the upriver side, crossing over
the
little waterfall just above the olive barrel's hollow and resting on
the olive
barrel itself! Amazingly, something else had stopped the fall and
I was
able to pull the barrel out with only a little extra effort. The
water
was high and fast, so I used a hoe to clean out the hollow, then placed
the
barrel in, repositioned it when it seemed a little too far back, then
secured
it with rocks and dammed the area to raise the water level. Back
at the
lodge, water was pouring through the open filter heads. I needed
to
changer the filter cartridges before securing them, which I hoped were
stored
in the attic, which required a ladder, which required unwrapping the
tarp
around the outhouse to release the ladder its line was tied to.
Long
story short, I found the filters in the attic (along with more evidence
of
mouse damage in the chewed paper towel rolls and soiled linens) and put
together the filter system, and we had water! Actually, more
water than
we wanted. The faucet maintained a small, steady stream even when
turned
fully off. I unhooked the water line later and held up a
flashlight while
Chris turned the faucet on and off; as far as I could tell it appeared
to fully
shut, and I was out of ideas. Thankfully, Chris was more
resourceful and
found a length of sink pipe to divert the water and nearly silence the
flow.
It was only then that I finally made the rounds to the rest of the
cabins. I'd seen two of them from above when hiking to the creek,
so I
knew at least those had not sustained catastrophic damage. They
all
turned out to be in good shape, though I was disappointed to find that
a mouse
had also spent some time in Cottonwood (either I'd failed to seal up
the hole
around the water inlet pipe or it had come loose). Mink's vanity
cabinet
was covered in thick mold, but nothing else was out of shape. The
sheet
of plastic protecting Harbor Seal's door was still intact, so I didn't
open it
up, but everything looked okay from the outside. Two trees had
fallen
from the middle of the freshet gully upriver between Harbor Seal and
Hermit
Thrush which will be a good, relatively easy source of firewood later
on.
I tried to put together the water system for Hermit Thrush when I got
there,
but found the last filter leaked catastrophically; tightening it didn't
help,
which is when I realized that it lacked an o-ring (the o-ring groove
was dark
and deceptive). When my mom and I had dismantled the water
systems
last fall,
we greased all the o-rings and left them inside the cabins with the
filters and
filter housings. There was a third o-ring with the group of
filters from
my cabin, but it did not fit. I figured I must have put the wrong
o-ring
on one of the others, but they clearly fit their own housings and not
this
one. Harbor Seal's filters were also in my cabin, but there
weren't any
o-rings with them at all! Maybe we'd taken them back to the lodge
and
somehow mixed them up? Whatever was up, I wouldn’t have running
water
that day. I was also thwarted in my attempts to start the
generator. Despite the brand new spark plug (which I was sure was
the
problem), the engine wouldn't budge, curtailing all impending projects.
At some point in here I think I took a nap and there may have been
several
rounds of Connect 4. It was interesting being at Snettisham so
early, and
it really felt more like fall than spring, including my general urge to
rest
rather than work! Outside, the fine weather had given way to
clouds and occasional
sprinkles. Bird life there and on the ride down was sparse--none
of the
dramatic congregations that I associate with spring migration, smelt
runs, or
plankton blooms, and there were no whales at all. On land there
were a
few varied thrushes and winter wrens singing, and sooty grouse, but
little
else. No hummingbirds came begging to the window, though I
thought I may
have heard one. All in all, I was a bit discouraged by the water
system
failures, the mouse infestations, the generator, and my own lack of
initiative.
That evening I intended to bake some Sweetheart
sockeye in the oven with fresh
peas, but couldn't find an appropriate dish, so wound up braising them
on the
stovetop. Although I didn't have high hopes, it was
amazing. Then
we watched a terrible movie before I headed to my cabin. I'd
fetched the
dog bed back down from the attic and placed Cailey's blanket in the
middle of
it next to the bed. Once I convinced her that sharing my bed
(which is on
the floor) was not an option, she curled up in the middle of the dog
bed and
sank so deep she was virtually encircled. It looked pretty cozy
and she
didn't shiver all night (the nights were still cold). Chris read
in the
lodge for a bit longer before coming to Hermit Thrush and managed to
take a
photo of a very cute, bold mouse in the wood pile.
In the morning, Chris and I tried to go for a COASST walk, but
the tide was too
high. I did see that one of the two cottonwoods on Nigel's grave
was
alive, as was the cottonwood in the tree trunk upriver, but I didn't
look at
the others. In the end, we opted to head back to town around 1:00
and,
upon settling into the Ronquil (and
leaving behind the stress of a
falling tide
departure), I immediately felt cheerier. Cailey sad on the back
bench and
looked back at the homestead for all the world like she was gazing at
the
happiest place is the world. The inlet was flat calm and
inviting.
Chris pulled the crab pot and found a small tanner crab inside which we
released. We did go by the sea lion haulout on the way out and
thought we
saw fewer lions than usual, especially for so early in the
season. The
seas were calm all the way to Taku Harbor, then began to pick up as we
neared
Taku Inlet. It was a bit choppy then and slow going and I stuck
close to
the mainland shore for a while to gain some shelter. This gave us
a
chance to take a look at the old Circle Point winter sea lion haulout,
which is
usually abandoned by the time I head that way. The most I'd ever
seen
there were two lions, but there were probably at least 30 there this
time. Neat! As we banged our way across Taku Inlet, Cailey
curled
up between us like the best little boat dog. All in all, it was a
more or
less successful trip--and at least it allowed me to identify problems
early on
so I can hopefully fix them before the season really gets underway.
