Snettisham
2010 - 9: RDK + Chris
July 27 - August 2

Rory and Kellee kayaking around River Point
Sometimes things just come together. For the
first
time in years, Rory and Kellee were going to be in
So Chris and I loaded all of this lumber as well as the gear to the
boat.
Naturally it was low tide, so we wound up humping the boards to the
boat rather
than using a cart (the ramp was too steep). The rest of the gear
took about four separate
cart
loads, but we eventually loaded everything in, snug like a glove, and
got
underway around noon. The lumber (some of which was 12' long) lay
along
the center of the boat, through the console hatch, and onto the bow;
thankfully
we could still close the center windshield over the top of it, so we
were still
protected. The whole boat was packed except for a nice little
cuddy for
Nigel behind the driver's seat between the trim and the side of the
boat.
He seemed content enough.
Day 1
As you can guess, I was pretty worn out by then, having just returned
from a
three day boat camping trip following a long week of preparation
following a
weekend at Snettisham, etc. The weather was gorgeous, so
naturally I had
staining in mind. Rory and Kellee were to show up the next day
and I
wanted to get as much done as I could before they arrived so I would
feel less
pressure to work while they were there. The more I pondered it,
though,
the more I realized that I needed to back off my expectations. In
the
end, I decided that I'd be satisfied if I stained the three stain-ready
walls
of Hermit Thrush and leave it at that. Chris and I arrived and
unloaded;
I stuck around longer than usual to help haul the prodigious assembly
of gear
up to the lodge, then anchored the boat. Lunch was the immediate
need
when I returned, and I set about making quesadillas....and immediately
realized
that I'd forgotten to bring cheese. This is the risk I take when
I
over-prepare, putting all the perishables together in the refrigerator
to make
sure I don't forget anything...but I hadn't yet grabbed a hunk of
cheese.
If I stop thinking about it, I'm bound to forget something! I was
pretty
grouchy about this, but quickly realized a potential solution. I
brought
out the satellite phone, discovered that (much to my surprise) I had a
signal,
and called Kellee (after looking up her number on my cell phone).
I
started out with "Bring cheese!" which I'm not sure Kellee heard (all
I got was "Hello?"); I followed up with "It's Debbie, bring
cheese, sharp cheese, and lots of it!" But then I lost the
signal. Chris volunteered to monitor the signal while I made
quesadillas
from a small brick of pepper jack I'd brought for variety. By the
time I
delivered his first quesadilla, I could hear him having a conversation
with
Kellee; he'd not only found a signal, he'd managed to learn enough
about my
phone to redial her number. It was a heroic moment.
After lunch we retreated to Hermit Thrush where Chris indulged in a nap
while I
got to work staining. I normally love to paint/stain, but I was
not
enjoying this. In fact, I was fuming inside and the only thoughts
I could
muster were of how much I disliked this task and how time consuming it
was.
I was on the first coat of the eighth of sixteen walls, and they all
needed two
coats; six of them needed to be stripped before I could apply the first
coat.
The main part of this wall was tolerable, but the majority of time was
taken up
by crouching under the eves behind the fascia board trying to
adequately cover
everything, which was awkward and frustrating and resulted in lots of
permanent drips down the wall. My fuming built
through
the first wall until I found myself on a ladder bending at a precarious
angle
to reach the eves under the porch on the other side. I was in a
hurry and
my ladder was not stable and I was bending too far away and.....well,
the
ladder fell out from under me, so I fell with a shout/moan more of
frustration
than alarm. Chris came out to find me crouched on the ground with
a
bruised and bloody elbow, but with no other apparent damage. He
stayed
for a bit and brought me some tissue, then I fell to working
again. It
might have been a blessing--a stress release--because I felt a lot
better from
then on out. As I continued work on the second wall I realized
that my side
was hurting pretty bad and lifted up my shirt to find a long, bloody
scrape. I decided to work through it and deal with it
later. It
hurt for a while, but by the time I started on the back wall I could no
longer
feel it.
When it was finished, I put everything away for the day and we headed
back to
the lodge for dinner. At that point I felt like I deserved to
relax, so forced myself to take it easy, spending the evening on the
couch
after making gratuitous creamy macaroni and cheese for dinner and
drinking
wine. Chris had brought his laptop with a movie on it, so we
snuggled in
and watched "Black Cat, White Cat," a Yugoslav "romantic
comedy" that was....unique. Images of it lasted for days.
The
next morning I began a regimen that I upheld for most of the
trip. I
rose at 6:30, threw on some painting clothes, and got to work.
The
gorgeous weather was holding, and I wanted to get all the walls
stain-ready, so
I first stripped the remaining six walls one last time (this was the
fifth time
for these walls), really concentrating on the bad spots and scrubbing
them with
a nylon brush. When that messy task was done I went down to
Harbor Seal
(on the point) to apply my first layer of clearcoat. I was
delighted both
by how quickly it went on compared to the stain (at least twice as
fast) and
how easy it was to work with. It's transparent when it dries, so I had
to worry
less about drips and such. As long as I covered everything, it
seemed I'd
be in good shape. It looked quite lovely when I was done, too
(shiny and
bright). I worked to the music of KXLL while Chris enjoyed the
sunny
weather on the point nearby. I wasn't expecting to finish the
cabin, but
was having such luck that I pushed through the front porch and finished
up just
at noon, when Kellee and Rory were set to depart from town. We
rushed
back to the lodge, had a snack, and waited on the porch for their
arrival. I'd chartered Jacque with Tal Air to bring them down--my
favorite pilot/airline. He landed downriver and taxied up to
where we stood
on the beach. I was wearing my new chest waders in preparation
and waded
out to meet them (float planes draw a lot of water). Since I was
the only
one with high enough waterproofing, I ferried everyone and their gear
to shore,
first Rory (who had to fend off the airplane when it started floating
toward us
with the rising tide and nearly knocked us down), then Kellee, then the
gear. We thanked Jacque and waved goodbye, then I opened up
Cottonwood
Cabin for the guests while Chris gathered cold drinks from the
freshet.
We all assembled for a drink on the new deck in the sunshine. The
day was
glorious, and Chris soon had the floaties we'd purchased in
While
Chris warmed himself back on the deck, Rory, Kellee, and I went
downriver
for a kayak, new territory for Kellee and Rory. As we paddled, we
started
chatting and catching up a bit, all in a line (Rory on my left, Kellee
on my
right). In the middle of Kellee talking I started chuckling to
myself as
I realized what an absurd picture we made--three friends earnestly
talking
about their personal lives while rigorously paddling kayaks in the
middle of
the Alaskan wilderness--we should have been on a morning jog in Central
Park! The image still makes me giggle. We passed the two or
three
resident loons that seem to have adopted the river (and I snapped a
couple of
blurry photos that suggest they were Pacific), then ran into a bit of
chop at
the mouth of the river. We plowed through, turning around River
Point and
kayaking into greener water and a cove right around the
corner. None
of us had been inside the forest there, so we ducked inside the bushes
to
explore. We found a lovely forest typical of the area growing up
the
sides of the steep slope that backed the narrow shelf of flat land
against the
beach. We followed a game trail back along the river and Rory
immediately
pointed out a box attached to a tree. As far as I knew, this area
should
have been devoid of human activity! The box was about seven feet
off
the
ground nailed to the side of a tree--it was about 10" wide, 6" deep,
and 12" tall, closed on all sides except the bottom. Having just
purchased one, a bat box was the only thing I could come up with.
But why
there? Who would mount such a thing in the middle of
nowhere?
Puzzled, we continued over a ridge to check out the other side (no
change),
then retraced our steps. This time Rory pointed out a yellow sign
attached to a tree about 50 feet from the box. It was a familiar
sign,
though one I've never understood. It had the forest Service logo
on top
and read "Wildlife Tree" and "This tree saved for wildlife -
please help to protect it" below. The tree was long dead, devoid
of
branches for 50 or more feet at the bottom, the upper branches all
covered in
thick moss. The only thing I could think was that it was a marbled
murrelet
nesting tree discovered by the ADF&G biologists and subsequently
marked. However, when I emailed my friend Matt who headed that
study, he
had no idea. Nor does the Forest Service office in
Back at the beach we enjoyed the sunshine for a few minutes, then
launched the
kayaks again and headed back around the corner, riding the current
around the
rocks at the edge of the cove and back to the river. Rory and
Kellee
dropped me off back at the homestead and headed across the river to
continue
their kayak. I took that opportunity to do something I'd been
looking
forward to for weeks--I finally mounted the bat box! Apparently
bats like
warmth, so ideal bat box mounting areas are in full sun and protected
from
predators. The best place I could think of down at Snettisham was
on the
fascia of the lodge porch--lots of sun and more protected from
predators than
nearby trees. I can't reach the fascia from the front, so I had
work from
the roof. I'd already set up the ladder at the back of the lodge
(where
two nails in the fascia there keep it steady). I headed up with
the box,
a level, and Chris's cordless drill and scooted slowly across the peak
to the
front. Because of the potential for guano, I wanted to mount the
box down
the side of the fascia and away from the center of the porch.
However,
without tying me off to a tree on the opposite side, I quickly
discovered that
there was no secure way to work on the metal siding without hands to
hang on,
and both hands were needed to hold the box and screw it in. So I
compromised, and placed it as far down from the center as I could reach
from
the peak, which wasn't very far. I'd started the screws inside
the lodge,
and quickly finished screwing one in (using longer screws than the box
came
with),
then leveled the box and quickly screwed in the other screw. I
shimmied back
down
and admired my work. It looked great! That evening we had
Sweetheart sockeye, chatted a bit, and turned in relatively early.
![]() Pulling up to the beach (photo by Kellee) |
![]() Rory, Debbie, and Nigel watching Chris float (photo by Kellee) |
![]() Mystery box |
![]() Wildlife tree |
![]() Kayaks on the beach |
![]() Bat box! |
Day 3
The next morning I fell out of bed at 6:30 again to continue
working.
Rather than staining immediately, I decided to protect the
stained
walls, clearcoating first the three stained walls of Hermit Thrush,
then the
back walls of Mink and
At
low tide, Rory and Kellee went for a walk upriver to the grassy point
while
I started staining the roof of the lodge porch. As the cedar was
still in
good shape (not mildewed), this was a lower priority than the cabins,
but I'd
already cleaned them and wanted to get them protected again before
winter too;
plus, it was a task I could do and still be social, since I was right
there at
the lodge. I stained about a quarter of it before lunch, then
finished
while Rory went for a kayak to the point towards Sweetheart Creek and
Kellee
and I chatted. The shiny spar urethane looked really nice, and I
was
pleased to cross that lingering project off my list. After Rory
returned, we
decided to
go to Sweetheart Creek. It was the peak of the season, which we'd
more or
less decided to avoid in order to miss the crowds of people in favor of
more casual
visits when we happened to be at Snettisham. But we happened to
be there
then, with guests, so we decided to take a look, with the idea that we
might snag our favorite point as folks were finishing up for the day or
fish
nearby. We
left at 2:45 with a kayak slung across the back of the Ronquil.
There were nine boats anchored up when we arrived, though fewer tenders
on
shore. I dropped everyone off while I went to anchor; Chris
headed
immediately for the point in the off chance of its
availability
while Rory and Kellee waited for me at the "You're in bear territory"
sign at the edge of the woods. At least they were supposed to
wait
there. I saw them head up there one minute, but turned around
after
anchoring to find them back at the edge of the water, and not watching
me as I
thought they should be. It didn't take me long to figure out what
else
might have their attention--a bear. As I approached the shore in
the
kayak I could hear another fisherman yelling to his group to swing wide
of the
salmonberries at the edge of the beach because of the bear; his dog
romped by,
apparently oblivious to the commotion. Sure enough there were
bushes
moving and I saw a golden bear moving along in the tall grass.
Rory and
Kellee had seen at least one other, possibly two other, bears (we think
from
other reports that it was a mother and two cubs). They'd showed
up to the
left of the trail into the woods just after Chris disappeared, then
crossed the
trail and moved out of sight to the right. After waiting a
suitable time
to make sure there weren't more bears following, we noisily entered the
dense
salmonberries (over head high) and headed into the woods. Just as
we
broke out among the trees, Chris spotted us and ordered us to
retreat.
Confused, we agreed and headed back toward the salmonberries where he
caught up
with us along with another fisherman. It turns out that Chris had
made it
up to the edge of the point when a brown bear showed up on the trail
heading in
his direction. He had no option but to back off, but whatever
path he
decided to take, the bear also decided to take, until he wound up back
to
us. Sure enough, while standing at the edge of the berry bushes,
a
beautiful brownie showed up heading slowly in our direction. We
all retreated
to the beach to wait it out. Another group was there and decided
to brave
it; we waited, but heard nothing other than dogs barking. By this
time I
was a little frustrated because I really wanted to fish! After
another
five minutes or so,
we
decided to give it a shot (along with the fisherman
Chris had picked up along the way after warning him that a bear was
imminently
approaching). We crossed the peninsula without incident, breaking
out on
the creek's edge farther upcreek than usual to hopefully avoid the
bear.
It turned out to be a good idea, as we immediately looked downriver and
spotted
him. Again, the bear headed in our direction--slowly, but
purposefully
enough that we hastily headed upcreek and to the point.
Of course the point was taken, and the creek was alive with fishermen;
only the
spots across the creek were available, but Rory and Kellee didn't have
large
enough boots to cross. Chris and I climbed down along the upcreek
side of
the point directly across from the edge of the falls above and tried
casting
there. I caught a pink and a dolly on my first cast right at the
base of
the falls, and one more of each species later. Unfortunately,
except for
that one shallow spot, the water there was too fast to allow the net to
close. While we were down there, Rory came over with news of a
bear
approaching on the other side of the point. We huddled together
to await
our fate; Chris saw a branch move right across the point from us (about
20 feet
away), but nothing manifested. Eventually I strolled over until I
could
see the bear heading back downriver to the voices of many
fishermen.
Chris and I tried fishing from a rocky outcrop closer to the point and
managed
to cast into the calmer area in the middle of the most productive
pool.
While there we talked to a woman fishing on the point. They'd
been there
for about four hours and caught about seven fish. Not great odds
even at
the best spot. In the meantime, another bear showed up on the
other side
of the creek and tried fishing from a point there, a bi-colored bear
that was
losing the last of his/her golden winter fur. I got the
impression that
the bears weren't having great luck fishing either, and were wandering
around a
little antsy. No one seemed to be doing particularly well, so we
packed
up and retreated loudly to the beach. No sockeye, but great bear
encounters! The tide was very high as we were leaving, and I
managed to
hit an errant rock with my prop on the way out (the beach at Sweetheart
has a
lot of pokey logs and rocks to avoid); two blades of my prop were bent,
and one
was scratched up.
Back at the lodge we ate rice pasta with
marinara sauce
for dinner and played scattergories (and the loser of each round had to
drink a sip
of peppermint schnapps), then turned in.
Day 4
I woke up sleepily and thought I'd better check my watch; it was
7:00 on the
dot, and I was again amazed at my internal clock. The night
before I'd
decided that perhaps the next morning I could sleep an extra half hour
and rise
at 7:00. Rory and Kellee were planning a big kayak adventure
upriver, so
I had more of the day for staining. I stained the front of Hermit
Thrush,
then the back side wall of Mink; while I was finishing up there, Chris
came
down to tell me that Nigel had vomited on the rug in our cabin, so I
headed up
there, drug the carpet onto the porch, and used my hose to rinse it
off.
That seemed like a good breaking point, so we headed to the lodge where
Rory
had done the dishes. We all hung around the lodge together until
around
noon when Rory and Kellee started ramping up for their big adventure on
the
rising tide. While they finished prepping, I started
staining
the front
of Mink cabin; the high overcast of earlier had given way to partly
cloudy
skies and it was very pleasant in the woods. Chris joined me and
set up
the radio in a tree branch for the best reception. I stained the
front,
then the final side of Mink before soldiering on to the final two sides
of
Rory and Kellee had fought sandbars all the way up the river, first
because of
the lowish tide, then because their route above Whiting Point (which
both avoided the brisk
current
and was on the way to the next bend in the river) was
shallow. They made it to a spot across from the second of three
waterfalls
on the
east side of the river, farther than I've been on kayak or skiff.
The sun
came out in full force while they were there and the photos they
brought back
were gorgeous. On the return trip they passed a dense
concentration
of seals
in the current--maybe that's where they go mid-summer! They were
exhausted
when they arrived and wanted something quick and simple, so I made a
big batch
of nachos with fresh guacamole on top and bowls of chili on the
side.
After dark we saw a bat outside; Rory and Kellee went to their cabin
relatively early, but Chris and I played gin
for a bit, then I turned in around 11:00.
Day 5
I
was back up at 6:30 on Saturday with seven walls to clear coat before I
could
call it quits. I'd meant to bring everything I needed to my
cabin, but
forgot good shoes (I'd worn loose slip-ons the night before) and my
painting
hat. While I was at the lodge I decided to wash my hair and
otherwise
freshen up before starting work (I usually did this after). Then
I put
down visqueen on the front porch of Mink and clearcoated it, then the
front side
wall, then the back side wall, all the while watching for movement from
Rory
and Kellee, who were usually up by 8 or 8:30. By 8:50 I was
finished with
Mink and still hadn't seen anything, so I quietly carried the plastic
and all
the other gear I needed up to Hermit Thrush and clearcoated the front
of
that. When I came back down I still couldn't tell whether they'd
emerged,
so I peeked into the window on the back side and found Rory's cot empty
and
Kellee's bed full! It seemed that Kellee had finally managed to
sleep in
a bit. I figured Rory could use some quiet time at the lodge to
work on
the libretto for his opera, so I set to work clearcoating whatever I
could on
Cottonwood Cabin that would not involve a ladder or anything
noisy. I
started with the corners, then the lower part of the riverside side
wall, then
heard Kellee's alarm go off at 9:50. I didn't worry about being
as quiet
after that, and continued work. Kellee came out and we fell into
a good
conversation and I convinced her to stay and chat with me while I
finished
first that side, then the back side, and then the front wall.
Chris came
down and joined us for a few minutes before heading over to the
lodge. It
was really pleasant and before I knew it, I was done. Well,
mostly
done. I discovered that I'd neglected to stain the inside of the
window
trim on the door, so I brought over a brush still wet with stain
(stored in a
ziplock for just such emergencies) and finished the morning with that
last bit
of staining. It was 11:45 and I was done done done!!!! It
was a
serious feeling of relief. We mustered at the lodge where we ate
some
amazing hash that Rory'd made. But, it was lunch time and I'd
been
working hard, so I also made myself a sandwich and ate it with OJ on
the front
porch; Chris made me some Russian tea and himself some cafe francais
and joined
me outside. The boat was aground, but the tide was rapidly coming
in, so
I
decided I'd better jump on that opportunity to work on the propeller
while I
still had access to it. Tea in hand, I made my way down the mud
flats to
the boat with Chris, leatherman in hand. I found the spare prop
in the
anchor cuddy and managed to get the cotter pin out of the other one,
but had to
go back to the lodge for a wrench to unscrew the nut (which Chris
heroically
managed after I gave up). After that, swapping them out was easy
and we
soon had an unbent prop attached. Rory had gone for a walk
upriver and
swung by the boat as we were finishing up with the off-hand comment "Is
it
raining?" Sure that it wasn't, I looked around to find dimples in
the
water where the sprinkles were landing. It was 12:30, 45 minutes
after
I'd finished staining!! Hallelujah.
As
the rain settled in, the four of us started writing a group story,
passing
the notebook around for each new line. Not surprisingly, given
that this was one of our
more fertile topics of conversation over the course of the trip, bears
formed a
central theme of the story. I'd suggested a small outdoor
adventure that
afternoon to explore the area uphill of the eagle's nest, but the rain
discouraged that idea. Instead we worked on firewood! After
sorting
and moving the stacks of lumber back in June, we'd wound up with a
large stack
of wood that needed to be cut up into firewood. I dug out my
chainsaw,
filled it with mixed gas and bar and chain lube, and tried to start
it.
And tried and tried. Eventually, after fuming a little and
letting it sit
for a bit, I got it running, but had to give it gas regularly or it
would
stall. Rory and I worked on the larger pieces of wood, laying
them over
two saw horses and cutting short lengths of them until Rory's hands got
uncomfortably close to the chain saw blade and we chickened out.
Unfortunately, this left a lot of nice lengths of wood several times
too long
for the wood stove. These we threw to one side and allowed the
smaller
pieces to stack up satisfyingly. While we cut the larger pieces,
Chris
first put the tire on the wheelbarrow (finally repaired from
catastrophic bear
bites), then started breaking up the smaller pieces of wood with his
feet. This proved so successful that he began breaking up the big
pile of
1x4s that had lain rotten for so many years and hardly seemed worth the
effort
of the chain saw, and our pile continued to grow. Once, just as I
began a
cut, I saw a movement above me and spotted a brown hawk fly overhead
and,
amazingly, land in a tree in plain sight! Unfortunately, it only
stayed a
moment and then flew on through the forest. I think it was
immature
goshawk due to size, color, and habitat.
When Rory and I finished cutting all the non-1x4 lumber, I asked
everyone to
follow me down the boardwalk for another, related project. The
enormous,
sprawling
clean
up and haul load after load of
firewood from the cutting area to its storage area under the porch and
in the
lodge. We also broke up the rest of the small alder branches we'd
left
behind and stacked the boards too big for the wood stove under the
currents
nearby for bonfires. We finished up with a task I've been wanting
to do
for years but never managed to commit the time to. Rory, Chris,
and I
moved all the scrap lumber from around the four cabins back to the
lumber staging
area at the lodge. Under each cabin was an assortment of short
2x8s from
cutting joists, scraps of cabin logs used to pound other pieces in,
bits of
plywood from the floor, pressure treated remnants from building
foundation
feet, etc. These have annoyed me for a long time! Finally
we dug
all of them out and hauled them away with several wheelbarrow trips
and also collected all the staining supplies I'd left littering the
ground (gloves,
brushes,
newspaper, masking tape, wrappers, etc.). Rory heroically hauled
all scraps
from both Hermit Thrush and Harbor Seal (the two cabins farthest away)
up to
Mink where the wheelbarrow could go no further. Chris hauled the
big
piece of plywood that's been living behind Mink. It was a very
satisfying
task, and we all wound up wet and a little grubby.
We had a wonderful night in the lodge that evening while in continued
to rain
hard outside. I admit that the rain was very welcome, having
graciously
held off just long enough for me to finish my task (I'd also gone back
and
clearcoated the inside of Cottonwood's window trim after the stain
dried).
There's
nothing cozier than being inside a warm cabin under a metal roof while
it's
raining! Plus I thought that it boded well for a following sea on
the way
home the next day. Rory made an amazing halibut dish with
simmered
vegetables and corn on the cob which I won't even try to
describe. We
drank the bottle of Riesling my mother had brought a few weeks before
that
had
been chilling in the creek. It was a fabulous dinner, far and
beyond anything that I might attempt. We finished our story after
dinner,
talked, sang, drank, and otherwise had a great time. Rory even
regaled us
with an a cappella version of Heart's Alone with backup vocals
from
Kellee.
![]() Mink fully stained |
![]() Finishing Cottonwood |
![]() Debbie and Rory cutting firewood |
![]() Stacks of firewood and bonfire wood |
![]() Rory's fabulous dinner |
![]() Firewood stacked under the porch |
Day 6
I slept in. Well, relative the rest of the week anyway! I
think I
packed up and headed to the lodge around 9:30. At the end of long
trips,
the last day is, unfortunately, mostly about going home. As
usual, Kellee
and Rory helped with dishes while I tidied and packed up in other
ways.
Since finishing staining I was finally able to board up the broken
window of
Hermit Thrush again, but wanted to install its hinge since it was
swinging
freely (something I couldn't do while it was boarded shut). Chris
and I
hauled over his cordless driver, a pencil, and tape measure, and
figured out
where to place the latch based on the other window.
Unfortunately, I'd
forgotten that the screws that came with the
cabin
kits all have square shaped
heads and need a different kind of driver. I went back to the
lodge and
found comparable screws with phillips heads and headed back; we
finished up in
no time and boarded over the window again. At last, everything
all put
away! Of course I'd forgotten to cover the rug that Nigel had
vomited on
and it had been rained on in the night, so we took that back to the
lodge and
laid it on the porch to dry while we were gone. On the way, we
tucked the
paint tubs under the porch of
After packing up we had a quick quesadilla lunch before closing up and
heading
out. The boat was considerably less weighted down, though the bow
was
full of trash bags containing garbage, linens (including a lot of wet
towels
from cleaning the cabin floors after rinsing the stripper off), and
recyclables. We
put a lot of gear in empty (fishless) coolers, but the day had dawned
surprisingly dry and was getting sunnier by the moment.
Consequently, we
went against a gentle chop from the NW heading up to Point Arden and a
somewhat
less gentle chop coming down Stephen's Passage on the way to
