Snettisham 2009 - 8:  Welcome to Fall
August 14-18

bears
Mama bear and cub on Sweetheart Creek

harborSummer always ends, even one as wonderful as 2009.  Usually somewhere in the first few weeks of August the air cools and starts to smell like fall, alder leaves begin to drop, and the goat's beard in the ditches turn yellow.  But it was still high summer when we left Douglas Harbor around 1:00 pm on Friday the 14th.  Chris's brother was in town, so we planned to spend the weekend at the homestead.  I can't say that the forecast was very good for the rest of the weekend...another stretch of lovely weather was giving way to 90% chance of rain and a storm was going to kick up from the south.  In fact, I'd never read a more ominous marine forecast for this time of year.  I called Chris from work Friday morning to tell him the news and find out if he still wanted to go, given that Brian had a flight out on Monday.  As usual, Chris was game to give it a try, especially when he found out that Brian didn't need to be back in Washington until the following Friday.  I hoped to stop by Sweetheart Creek on Saturday, so on the way home I swung by Taku Fisheries and picked up a small tote of ice in case I managed to catch anything.  We gathered the rest of our gear at home, threw Brian's pack in a garbage bag for the rain, and headed to the harbor around noon.  I'd gotten up early that day, walked Nigel at Sandy Beach, and fueled the boat before work.  At 7:00 am I'd found the harbor alive with people getting ready for the salmon derby.  Chris, Brian, and I loaded the gear, bailed the boat a little, and took off.  There was a light chop down the channel from the south, and the ride was rainy, but otherwise pleasant enough.  Brian sat shotgun and Chris sat in back on the cooler with Nigel.

Inside Port Snettisham we saw whale blows and watched a pair of whales--which turned into a trio--come up for several breathing cycles.  I got blurry shots of two tails, one with big white spots, the other with a little blush of white on the upper edge of each side.  We saw another whale as we turned around Sentinel, but were pretty chilled and ready to get to shore.  We arrived around low tide, but it was an unusually high low tide and there was only a difference of about nine feet between high and low.  We landed close to shore and I dropped the gear and the boys off, grabbed the kayak, and anchored the boat.  Chris took Brian on a tour around the property to choose a cabin and I opened up and started the systems.  I was disappointed to see no rush of water through the filters when I opened the valve and, sure enough, no water was making its way to the faucet.  When the boys came back we lit the forestpilots on the range and put Brian in charge of lighting a fire while Chris and I hiked up to the creek to take a look at the olive barrel situation.  I hadn't cleared the trail this year, so we fought a lot of devil's club on the way.  Sure enough, the water level in the creek had dropped and the barrel sat in a shallow depression, the outlet pipe several inches above water level.  We manhandled the barrel off to the side and set about scraping out the hollow which was filled with small shale rocks and the larger rocks that had held the olive barrel in place.  There was already a bank of small rocks along the right side of the creek, so we decided to use that as a sort of dam.  Chris scooped rocks with his feet to build up that side and I pushed excess rocks down the middle where a break in a few large rocks allowed the outlet pipe to drain downhill below water level.  A large flat rock inhabits the left side of the creek against which the olive barrel rests.  Once we'd scraped what we thought was a suitable hollow, we replaced the olive barrel, let it fill with water, and weighted it down in the front.  Then we filled the area around the outlet pipe with a few stones and lots of small rocks to make a dam and effectively raised the water level by several inches, satisfyingly above the pipe. 

Pleased with our work, we descended through the wet forest to warm up by the fire, first discovering that a naughty bear had bitten through the water pipe right near the valve on the back of the lodge and water was spraying with force against the side of the bear proof box.  The metal roofing I put on the sides of the box suddenly became very functional.  Inside, Chris and Brian started playing gin and eventually I joined in.  After one game of the sort that two people normally play we decided that gin rummy would be a better fit for the three of us, so we pooled our memory about the rules and started a game to 300 points.  I think Chris won.  We started another game, then broke for Philly cheese sandwiches roasted on the wood stove.  The weather had improved a little and it was crazy hot inside, so we ate the second round of sandwiches on the porch, finishing the game of gin rummy afterwards.  Then we played a round of Cranium before bed.

whale
Whale fluking in Snettisham
tail
Tail 1
tail
Tail 2
barrel
Olive barrel in the creek gone dry
barrel
Olive barrel in the creek dammed up
tree
Debbie hiding in a big tree

I slept as long as I wanted to the next morning (summer was catching up to me), then made my way to the lodge with the intent to fix the holes in the water pipe.  When I went inside and turned the water on, though, nothing came out, and there was no water shooting through the holes outside.  I had intended to turn off the valve at the top and let the pipe drain in order to fix it, but this worked just as well.  Unfortunately, the bite holes were very close to the valve and there wasn't enough pipe left to splice in a new coupling as I usually would--a long term fix would involve cutting the coupling off the valve itself, which was more work than I was in the mood for.  Instead, I decided to patch it.  sandpiperApparently old rubber bicycle tires work pretty well for this, but lacking any rubber, I resorted to duct tape wrapped several times around the area secured with a hose clamp.  This accomplished, I moved on to another task.  The next big project I wanted to undertake this summer was installing the hemlock paneling over the ceiling.  I'd cut most of the boards I needed for it in June, but they still sat under a tarp on the new deck.  I took a look at the ceiling plan and the dimensions of the boards I would need, and moved a stack of each size onto the top deck so they'd be handy when we started.

That was about all the energy I had.  I ate some breakfast and collapsed on the couch for a bit.  At about 11:30 Brian came over and that roused me enough to hike to the olive barrel, slowly hacking with a machete to clear the way.  I saw nothing out of order when I reached the top and our dam still functioned beautifully.  When I returned to the lodge water was again flowing through the system and a tiny drop was escaping from beneath the hose clamp.  The whole water system is a bit of a mystery!

I made quesadillas for lunch, then Brian and Chris decided to go for a kayak.  Although it sounded like fun, I felt like I needed to get some more work done, so let them go without me.  I suggested they head upriver and across, unfortunately steering them wrong in terms of the tide, which was still dropping.  They played with lots of seals, visited the big avalanche, and went as far as the huge sandy beach near Whiting Point.  Meanwhile, I went for a COASST survey and watched them from shore when I reached the grassy point upriver.  I didn't find any dead seabirds, but I did find some mammal tracks and paused to observe a lovely spotted sandpiper foraging along the shore in clumps of seaweed.  Sandpipers followed me for the rest of the weekend.  Back at the homestead I rearranged all the loose boards on the new connecting deck between the stairs and the big deck and nailed the ends of them in.  Then I had a diet coke and went to Sweetheart Creek.

So I'd been a bit discouraged by the hordes of people (and no hordes of sockeye) at Sweetheart this year and was considering ending our annual fishing tradition.  But, I've always said that the way to harvest at Sweetheart (if you're as lucky as me) is to swing by while at the homestead for other business.  That way, I've already spent the gas for other reasons, there's no pressure (and, hence, no need to get up at 3:00 am to stake out fishing points), and if you catch a few sockeyes here and there, that might be enough, given that you're only harvesting for yourself.  In truth, just bopping over to Sweetheart Creek like that isn't as simple or quick as it sounds, and it's hard for me to take the time on an already short weekend to go there when I have work to do.  But, with Brian and Chris otherwise occupied on the kayaks, I figured this was the right chance.  I kayaked out to the boat, drug the kayak onboard, pulled anchor, and headed away, reminded of how simple it is to go places on my own (without having to pick up and drop people off).  I had to stop a few times to rearrange the kayak so it was balanced in the back, though.  Nigel was back at the lodge.  When I arrived at the flats I passed one yacht at anchor and saw a small open boat just leaving shore.  I quickly set anchor, hoping to kayak by the latter boat for a fishing report.  When I asked how they'd done, one of them threw up his hands in a gesture of defeat and said that they'd seen two sockeye falling or something (I couldn't understand), and told me that I'd have to go all the way to the top to find them.  I figured he meant that all the sockeye had already made their way past the series of lower falls and were now milling around the bottom of the big falls where they can't pass and where it's cubspretty difficult to fish.

But, I was there, so I figured I'd give it a try.  The tide was rising, so I drug the kayak up some distance and tied it around a rock.  Tromping through the forest over the peninsula I made ridiculous conversation to bears (as I knew there were few if any other people on the creek), then stepped out onto the bank of the creek to the din of a huge flock of gulls feeding on salmon.  There were plenty of carcasses and the creek was full of fish activity--but, after a moment's excitement I realized that they were probably all pinks.  I searched the shallows for flashes of silver, but couldn't make anything out.  Nevertheless, sitting by the creek and pondering my existence didn't seem like a poor alternative to fishing, so I continued on my way, scaring away bunches of pink every time I stepped in the water.  I scaled up the slippery rock on the first point, then made my way around the familiar trail to our favorite fishing point upriver.  As I was approaching the end of it, just a few feet from descending to the creek, I saw movement close by on the left and realized that I wasn't alone after all--the folks from the yacht must be there, I thought.  But when my eyes focused I discovered that I was, instead, eye to eye with a large, sleek brown bear about 20 feet away.  With a rush of adrenaline I started hollering a little and the bear paused and reluctantly turned away, heading along the edge of the rocks toward the forest; on the next point up I could see a cub devouring salmon.  I scurried down to the water and looked back to see another cub coming quickly in my direction, looking curious and not at all cautious.  It took a lot of waving and  yelling to get the cub turned around, but I surely didn't want to make mother nervous.  A third cub was nearby at the end of the little inlet that separates the two points.  Soon all three cubs joined up there, one of them tearing away at an old rotten log and the others playing around below it.  Mama bear came back over above me and finished what I'd interrupted, which was simply to walk straight down the side of the rock about 20 away and slowly cross the creek toward the upper point.  She looked like she was walking on water, standing on rocks I didn't know were there.  One of the cubs waded out to follow her across and passed her to stand on the shelf by the falls while she remained on the rocks in the river.  The salmon like to run up the falls there, passing by the rocks she was standing on and making easy pickings for fishing bears, or dipnetters. Mom and her companion were actively searching for fish in the water.  Mama bear plunged in and looked around a few times, but it was the cub who alerted her to a fish in the shallows near the waterfall.  He lunged toward it a little and squirmed before she came over, plunging her head in and emerging with a wriggling fish.  One of the other cubs had found a roll of duct tape to play with adorably nearby.  

This was all pretty exhilarating!  I was very much alone on the creek in terms of humans, with a mother bear and three young of the year cubs.  When she crossed the creek I could see three rows of nipples protruding, so it was clear she was still nursing despite the ravenous salmon-eating cub.  Downriver there was a stump on the rocks that looked all the world like a blond dead bear washed up and it was terrifying.  I was a bit on edge, but after I watched the bears for a while I figured I'd try to few casts.  After all, it was clear that there was no shortage of food!  The water was absolutely alive with pink salmon, solid masses of them that choked the creek.  I could see hundreds, maybe thousands, in the clear water downstream of the point.  I again looked for silvers among the dark pinks, and liked to think I saw some, but it was pretty hard to tell.  All along the falls just upstream salmon were jumping and fishwriggling their way up and salmon were finning everywhere.  Farther up at the large falls fish were leaping high into the air in a fruitless attempt to reach Sweetheart Lake.  The water had dropped substantially in the last few weeks, so more of the point was exposed and I saw several new rocks in the creek.  My first cast brought in about ten pinks.  I didn't see myself doing a lot of casting in that situation, but I threw the net again just for fun.  In the second cast I caught a sockeye!  I was all set up and quickly bonked and bled and strung him up.  I was pretty excited about that.  About ten casts later I caught another sockeye.  In the meantime, I probably caught 100 pinks.  Only rarely did the net come back with nothing--usually when it got tangled or when I cast in extremely turbid or extremely clear water.  I usually caught between five and twelve pinks--or so I estimate.  I lost track counting the intensely wriggling mass of fish in my net after eight or so and figured it was friendlier to release them as quickly as possible  I won't say it wasn't fun to catch fish on every cast, but my net did get a little wear and tear.  I treated the pinks as well as I could and enjoyed releasing them back to their companions, my hands getting cut up from their teeth.  After an hour or so I decided to take my catch and call it a day.  Mama bear and her cubs had disappeared into the forest, so I threw my backpack on, grabbed the net bucket and the strung sockeyes, and walked back to the boat chatting up the bears all the way.  At the shore I cleaned the fish, placed them in the kayak, and paddled out.  I wanted to show off my catch (which was pretty unexpected) when I got to the homestead, so I didn't ice them until I'd anchored up.  Unfortunately, no one happened to be looking when I held them up in triumph.

Chris and Nigel met me outside and I told them about my adventure and we agreed that we should all go over there the next day.  We ate some Sweetheart sockeye (from a few weeks prior), stuffing, and zucchini for dinner and played Scattergories before bed.  Nigel was eating pretty well, too.  Just before leaving Juneau I'd changed the tote configuration in the garage and, in the process, managed to leave Nigel's bag of dog food and thyroid medicine on the floor.  There was enough leftover dog food from previous trips for a meal and a half, after which he ate combinations of leftover bread and Philly cheese sandwiches, crackers, milk, pasta, and ancient beef stew.

lumber
Ceiling panels laid out on deck
sandpiper
Spotted sandpiper
creek
Sweetheart Creek from the point

eagle gull
Eagle being harassed by a gull
kayaking
Chris and Brian kayaking
pinks
Pink salmon packing Sweetheart Creek
deck
Connecting deck

bears
Mama bear and cub fishing
fishing bear
Mama bear fishing

fishing I rose earlier on Sunday to get ready to take the boys to Sweetheart Creek.  Chris and I had oatmeal and orange juice for breakfast, then Brian came over and had oatmeal and Russian tea.  We left the homestead at 10:30.  Brian didn't have boots, so Chris piggy-backed him to shore, but he still wound up with water over one boot.  When I was kayaking in I asked him if he still wanted to go to the creek with a wet foot and his answer was "absolutely!" so maybe he's picked up some of his brother's enthusiasm for adventure.  We talked to the bears as we crossed the peninsula to the creek, passing more carcasses, bear poop, and gulls when we arrived.  We set up on the point again and Chris took the first cast, coming in with about ten wriggling pinks.  I warned them after that that there was a hole in the top of the net, so if a sockeye happened to show up, we needed to make sure we pulled the net up out of the water and not let any escape.  It was a well-timed warning.  Chris cast again and came up with a beautiful sockeye.  We were all set to bonk, bleed, and string it up.  It was a bit unfortunate for the pinks that came in with it, as they had to suffer a little longer before we let them escape.  Our system was to bonk the sockeye until it stopped wriggling, fish it out of the net, then set the others free; other than one pink that cut its gill while tangled in the net, I think all the pinks were released more or less unscathed.  I enjoyed gently holding the more stunned ones in the water until they finned their way down to join the others.  Some of the pinks had huge humps and they were all mottled olive.  Spotting an ocean bright sockeye in a net full of pinks was like seeing a thoroughbred horse standing in the middle of a bunch of short, shaggy ponies (that was the best analogy I could come up with, though it'd be better if thoroughbreds were gray).  Sockeyes shone solid silver and vastly outsized all their drab, spotted cousins (you can get a glimpse of one in the photo of netted fish below, dead center).  In the turbid opaqueness of the water, sometimes we could see a flash of silver as we pulled in the net, evidence of a sockeye inside.  Spotted sandpipers zoomed up and down the creek, landing on the rocks downstream before disappearing down the creek.

Chris cast for a while, then handed the net off to me and asked me to demonstrate an ideal throw.  Somehow I managed to pull that off, and my net opened into a beautiful circle in the upper pool.  Sure enough, I caught a mess of pinks and one sockeye.  Given that we really hadn't expected to come back with any sockeyes at all, this was pretty exciting!  I cast for a while, then gave the net back to Chris and suggested that he try to release the net with his right hand parallel to the water (something I learned after several years of casting at Sweetheart Creek.  He gave that a try and the net opened perfectly.  As he let it soak (before he pulled the rope and pursed the net) I saw a big flash of silver and wondered if there was a sockeye in there.  Sure enough, he came back with lots of pinks and one enormous sockeye that was just started to get a hook in his jaw and was slightly more olive than the others.  As I strung him up I spotted a brown bear on the point downstream, scaling the cliff down to the water.  I hollered across the noisy creek to let her know we were there.  She glanced at us, then plunged into the water and emerged with a wriggling salmon.  We watched as she devoured it there on the edge of the cliff, casting it aside when it was half eaten and plunging back into the water.  She was below the lower falls there and disappeared from sight when she was in the water, but every few seconds we'd see the top of her head pop up, then disappear again as she leapt back into the water.  We watched her catch two more salmon before she wandered back into the woods.  I confirmed that she was the mother from the day before when I saw her nipples again, but the cubs were nowhere in sight.  Twenty minutes later we saw her walking along the edge of the creek toward us and had to yell quite a bit to convince her to turn around.  With a look of resignation, she finally ambled off.

castsockeyeSo we continued fishing, having a blast catching and releasing a ton of pinks, and landing three more sockeyes.  There was a little fish-sized pool in the rocks near the water and we started bleeding them in there before we strung them up.  After we had five fish on the line, I cleaned and clipped their tails while Chris continued casting.  People aren't supposed to clean the fish in the upper pools, but I think the reasoning there is mostly about not creating bear attractants where people fish.  I figured there was no chance I was going to do anything to encourage more bear activity, and no more people were coming to the creek; plus there were already carcasses of pink salmon everywhere.  The two largest fish were males, the rest females, and both the ones I'd caught the day before were females.  We threw a few roe sacks in the water to see if the pinks were interested in munching them, but it was hard to tell and we were soon distracted by the mother bear and her three cubs who showed up farther downstream on the other side of the creek.  I have a theory that this is a resident brown bear that I've seen several times at Sweetheart Creek.  I can't substantiate this, but here's the theory.  In 2006, a beautiful, dark, sleek female brown bear lingered just across the creek from the group while we were fishing on the point and I got some great photos of her there, and later fishing (with her head submerged) farther downstream.  In 2007, a mother brown bear and three cubs showed up on the peninsula side of the creek just as we were ready to go home, causing an arduous kayaking adventure at low tide through Sweetheart Flats.  She looked a lot like the bear I'd seen the year before, and a lot like the bear this year.  It would make sense that she would have young cubs again this year, and I've heard that bears that throw triplets (less common than twins) tend to do so consistently.  She is certainly at ease with the human pinksfishermen at her creek.

Around 2:00 I suggested that we'd better head back, as we still needed to pack up at the homestead and make it to town.  Chris wanted to cast a few more times and so did I.  When I took the net I said I'd do two casts and call it a day.  The first cast brought in a bunch of pinks.  On the second cast, the net barely opened at all, landing like a big flat taco in the water.  Chris sympathetically said maybe I could do one more after that and, as I pulled it in, I was thinking of what to say if I'd happened to land a sockeye.  I pulled the net into the shallows and inside was a single fish--a beautiful sockeye--and I said "no, I think I'll just keep this one and call it good!"  I know, you'd think I'd have come up with something a little more witty, but I really wasn't expecting a sockeye.  But, this fish was escaping through the hole in the top of the net pretty effectively.  Brian and I pounced on it, frantically trying to hold it down as it wriggled up the rocks and Chris grabbed the bonker, quickly subduing it.  It was a brilliant ending, the kind you always hope for when you do that "one last cast."  So we  cleaned the last sockeye and gently  put the fish in my dry bag.  Chris gallantly carried them all out.  We chatted up the bears on the way to the boat, but they left us alone.  On the way I came up with a plan for icing the fish, which was awkward with only one cooler on board and no other containers to hold the ice and two fish iced on top already.  Back at the homestead I had Chris run up and empty the food cooler at the lodge while I held the boat off against the falling tide and bring the empty cooler back to me.  I anchored up, then moved the two iced fish into the new cooler, and iced four more on top of those, which pretty much filled it up.  The last two fish I iced in the original cooler with the balance of the ice.  

Back at the homestead there was a fire and we all put our wet gear around it to dry (it had been raining all day) and ate quesadillas for lunch.  Then we all packed up, Chris helping with the sweeping and other chores.  I went to get the boat while the boys brought all our gear down to the water and we took off into a brisk southerly breeze that created a bit of a chop on the river.  The homestead is pretty protected from the wind, so it's really difficult to tell what's happening outside without going and checking it out.  As we neared Sentinel Point we started to run into some gentle swells, which was not a great sign, then choppy two footers beyond that.  It was pretty uncomfortable, so I crossed the Port to see if we could seek shelter behind Mist Island.  It was hard to tell if it did any good, as we were still running into 2-3 footers, really not a good sign.  My plan was to stick our heads around Mist Island, which would give us a pretty good idea of what was going on outside.  We quickly hit some rolling four footers there and it wasn't long before I asked if anyone minded turning around.  Brian's immediate response was "no."  It was a little scary, especially when we turned around and put our stern at the mercy of the waves and were kicked around pretty hopelessly.  A few minutes before, I'd handed Chris the handheld radio tuned to the weather station and asked him to listen for Stephen's Passage.  He gave it back about the time we were turning around.  The electronic weather man was calling for six foot seas that day, four foot seas the next, diminishing to 3 feet by Tuesday.  We'd all known that turning around was a possibility, but none of us were particularly thrilled (I think).  Poor Chris got drenched several times sitting in the back when we crashed through larger waves and I got pretty wet as well.  Back at the homestead I dropped everyone off, then refueled and bailed the boat, and came in to warm up by the fire. 

A batch of good, Mexican hot chocolate was in order.  Just as I was sitting down to enjoy it, I realized that I'd left the satellite phone on the boat, which we needed to alert people of our situation per the plan we'd set in motion before we left.  There was no way I could relax knowing I'd have to kayak out there, so I left my hot chocolate to cool and kayaked out to pick up the phone; my hot chocolate was lukewarm when I returned.  For once we found a great signal on the satellite phone and I managed to talk to my parents for a few minutes and Chris called his mother to let her know that Brian wouldn't make his flight.  I even talked to Dru about dropping off his vacuum packer the next day so I could process the sockeyes as soon as I got to town.  The fish were worrying me a bit--I don't like to keep fish unfrozen for more than a day or two and I knew that my limited ice supply would only diminish. That night we played a lot of gin and ate salad and some real emergency food--delicious pasta. 

cardsMy dad had recommended that I get up really early, as winds often die down at night and pick up again as the day progresses, so I set the alarm for six and headed down to the river to scope it out, surprised to find that the boat was aground.  The high low tide trend was clearly passing.  It would be another hour before it would float.  I figured this was a good opportunity to drain the boat, but the boat was aground perfectly level, the v-shaped hull sunk into the mud (it usually leans to one side), which mean that the plug was in the mud.  It had been raining rigorously all night, though, so I wanted to do what I could.  I excavated around the plug and stood in the steady wind and driving rain scraping channels away from the drain with the heel of my boot.  When I plugged it again some minutes later, my pants were completely soaked and I'd decided that, with or without water, we clearly weren't going to make it to town that morning.  I slunk back to the cabin and crawled into bed. 

planeI don't remember what time Chris and I reemerged from the cabin to make our way to the lodge and light a fire.  Everything was gray, spirits were a bit low.  We were sitting around the living room in the lodge about dig into some fresh biscuits I'd made when a Ward Air Beaver buzzed us.   I donned raingear and boots and headed down to the water, telling Chris to have Brian get ready to go in case it was for him.  Drenching rain outside.  I held onto the plane and helped turn it around (nose out) and then told the pilot I wasn't expecting a plane and asked what was up.  His answer: "Your pop told me to come and get you."  There was no message from my parents.  I was puzzled and a little annoyed about the change in plans--chartering was not something I'd talked with my parents about the night before and there was no message to explain the plane's arrival.  Was there a flight home for Brian at the airport?  Did my parents expect me to leave my boat and come home on the plane for some uncertain reason?  Chris came down and I told him what little I knew and asked him if he wanted to go too.  Of course he had to go with his brother, given the uncertainty of the situation,.  That was a sad realization for me.  I left the pilot there and went up to the lodge to try for a satellite phone signal while Chris quickly packed his gear, but I never got a signal.  I tried for as long as I could, then had to send them on their way with no information. 

It was a low moment for me, unexpectedly and confusingly alone at the homestead, trying to decide what to do.  There was still a breeze on the river, but it seemed moderately better, so I soon packed up and carried my gear down to the river, not doing as thorough a job as usual with the cleaning up this time.  The tide was falling, so when I brought the boat in I pushed it off the beach a little while I hauled the kayak up.  By the time I came back down it had drifted just a few feet farther than I could reach without getting my boots wet, so I had to tromp up for the kayak again, towing the boat to shore with it,  then hauling it up above high tide again.  I took a quick look in the smaller cooler and was horrified to see my fish floating; the ice had melted overnight.  Needless to say, I was pretty tense and frustrated.  It was the first time I'd been along down at Snettisham in a long time.  I used to be down there along quite often, but not this summer, and I missed having someone to bounce ideas off of, to talk about possibilities and offer moral support.  I didn't have enough fuel for endless trial attempts at making it back to town, and it was so hard to know whether to go or not. 

And so I headed out with prayers to the gods for decent seas.  The radio made noise for a couple of seconds, then went dead.  At River Point a sandpiper darted across my bow like a warning shot.  The rain came down in droves, but the water was nearly calm most of the way to Sentinel and I was mildy hopeful.  Then a gull shot across my bow like another warning shot and the visibility dropped so I lost sight of Sentinel Point for a bit.  When I crossed beyond the point I hit gnarly 2-3 footers with chop.  Looking through the misty gloom toward Stephen's Passage I saw a bright light glowing in the rain like a brilliant beacon of hope--the mast of a ship!  My first thought was that the Coast Guard was coming to rescue me, but I realized immediately how ridiculous that was.  It must be a fishing boat, I thought, seeking shelter in Snettisham during the storm.  Maybe they could tell me what the weather was like in Stephen's Passage!   Moments later I knew what it was like in Stephen's Passage.  I was hitting consistent, scary, gnarly four footers and it wasn't going to get any better if I went on.  I was still just off Point Sentinel where I've never seen seas like that.  My next thought was for the poor fish in their iceless coolers and I momentarily considered continuing on to the fishing boat in the hopes of begging ice from them.  Although the boat wasn't too far away, it was clear that I couldn't safely stay in those seas.  I managed to get a signal on the radio, but it was not talking about marine weather.  I sobbed most of the way back to the homestead. 

Back at shore, I grabbed the kayak and anchored the Ronquil in a numb haze, bringing the handheld to shore in case the fishing boat anchored in the river and I could ask him for ice.  I did check the cooler again and discovered that my initial observation was faulty--there were still clumps of ice floating in the water.  I opened the other cooler and discovered much of the ice remained in a slushy mass around the two fish inside.  I drained most of the water to protect the ice, transferred some ice to the smaller cooler, and moved two of the fish into the Nigelbigger cooler.  Everything was, well, ice cold, so I was more hopeful.  But that ice wasn't going to last long, either, and I really had no idea when the storm would pass.  I was in a foul mood.  I wished that I could have taken that opportunity to work--after all , there I was at Snettisham with nothing else to do.  Unfortunately, I lacked both energy and will to work on the ceiling or any of the other myriad projects that awaited me, and that didn't help.  Nigel's face in the photo to the right pretty well captured the mood.  I lit a fire, spread my clothes out to dry, and collapsed on the couch with a cup of wine.  Two sips later I was asleep and napped there for about 45 minutes.  I made dinner when I got up and spent the rest of the evening on the couch reading, staring into space, listening to the radio, and trying to get a signal on the sat phone.  I finally made it through to my mother around 7 and talked with her for a while, learning that the charter had been an accident--that my dad had talked to Ward Air about the potential of sending a plane, but had never actually requested it.  Chris had successfully asked Alaska Airlines to change Brian's flight without a change fee and was at that moment taking him to the airport.  She also gave me encouragement that my fish would be alright for a few more days and told me that the worst of the storm was that day and that the winds were supposed to die down over night, then be breezy for the rest of the week.  I relaxed a little longer, then went to bed early and read there for a bit.

The next morning I slept in.  There was no wind there at the cabin (a good sign) but it was still breezy at the lodge.  The boat was barely floating.  I took my time, uncertain and anxious about whether I should try to make it out again.  I ate breakfast, washed the dishes, swept the lodge, covered the windows, packed up, and hauled my gear down to the water, again.  The tide was rising now, but the water was still pretty low; I put the gear about eight feet above the edge and kayaked out to the boat.  On the way in I went aground and got out to pull the boat farther in, still some distance from shore.  The water got deeper again in front of the beach, so I got back in and poled to shore.  The water had already risen already around the bottom of the tote and my backpack and the mustang suit had fallen off the tote and was getting wet as well.  I loaded everything up, drug the kayak onto the lodge  porch, then lifted the dog into the boat and poled out to deeper water.  From there I idled down to River Point, in part to warm up the engine and in part to save gas.  I was escorted by a group of gulls (no warning shots this time), and friendly sandpipers; the seals were out again as well (I hadn't seen much of them during the storm), all of which seemed like good signs.  Coming around River Point  it was still breezy, but suddenly the sky had patches of blue and all the mountains were wrapped in rising wisps of mist.  In the wake of the storm was Fall.

There was a bit of chop in Snettisham, but it calmed down near Point Styleman and I had mostly calm water all the way back to Juneau--hard to believe the transformation from the day before.  It was a beautiful fall day, all the mountains draped in mist, the air sharp and clear.  I passed a pair of whales just north of Seal Rocks heading south and had a glimpse of some small patches of white on one of them--maybe two of the same whales we'd seen four days before.  Quite a few boats were anchored up in Limestone Inlet and just beyond there I saw a small hawk flying over the water and followed it to shore, losing it in the dense brush when it landed.  I made it back to the harbor around 11:30 am and called my boss and Chris on the way home.  It was a bit surreal returning to Juneau and passing my office, having been weathered in behind a big storm 40 miles away, all unwashed and weary.  My first task was to take care of my poor fish, which were amazing still floating in ice water.  I quickly set up a fillet station in the garage and Chris portioned and vacuum packed as many fillets as he could in the kitchen during his lunch break (Dru had dropped the vacuum packer off the day before).  I'm not a very good filleter (unpracticed), so the fillets aren't nearly as pretty as they could be, but they're functional.  When I'd filleted the last fish, I came inside and finished vacuum packing and Chris returned to work.  Most of the flesh looked pretty good, only one fillet showing any gaping from lack of chilling.  The two big males had dark red flesh and yielded satisfyingly thick fillets.  They were all beautiful, and made an impressive stack of portions when I was finished.  After I put the last of the catch in the freezer, I took a shower and went to work for two hours, happy enough to be back.

Snetty
Snettisham after the storm
filleting
Filleting
catch
The catch

mama bear
Mama bear with salmon